The idea of the expat experience for Americans might once have called to mind the mysterious and romantic “Rick” in Humphrey Bogart’s portrayal of a bar owner in the movie, “Casablanca.”
Today, though, there’s a subset of quite ordinary and respectable retirees who are taking the leap into a strange, new world of foreign lands, language, and traditions. Although most Americans retire in the U.S., a growing number have moved abroad or are exploring the options. Some are looking for a cheaper cost of living, the romance of a foreign locale, or concern for the current state of politics. Whatever the reason, it requires some serious homework.
The Expat Impulse
When he turned 60, Athenian Bill Fay, now 71, decided two things: he was not going to die monolingual, and he wanted to learn to dance. He began his retirement projects in earnest in 2012 when he did some Google research and discovered the cheapest, most efficient way to learn a foreign language and just to travel is to book two weeks at a time with schools that provide room and board with a native speaker, and five hours of classes a day for a cost of about $600 a week at the time.
He went to Costa Rica once a year and studied with the same school; he also studied in Mexico and Nicaragua. “I probably took 15 two-week trips over several years.” He also took six months of online Spanish classes with a tutor.
Costa Rica turned out to be a good fit the bill for Fay who suffers with Seasonal Affective Disorder (SAD). He wanted a place that was warm and sunny when Georgia is too gray, cold, or wet and a place that was cool and temperate when Georgia is just too darn hot!
“I was always depressed in the winter,” said Fay, “So I would try to plan my trips at that time.” Discovering he was much happier when he avoided winters in Georgia, he bought a house in Costa Rica and now spends winter and late summer in his aerie, overlooking the town of Santa Ana, nestled in the hills about 10 miles west of San Jose, the capital. It’s described as a popular suburb, where once it was just a dot on the map. Fay says the country has grown from less than a million people in 1950 to over five million now, including around 400,000 from Nicaragua, Venezuela, and Cuba.
“I’m not vacationing – I’m living here,” Fay emphasizes. There is a sizable and supportive expat community which Fay describes as two types: those with the attitude ‘I’m going to enjoy life until I die,’ and those on a fixed income, who often are grumpy about inconveniences. Although he doesn’t like the gated, expat communities for himself, he does advise connecting with other English-speaking people. “Conversing in a foreign language can be exhausting.”
As with living in any foreign country, there are differences in the pace of life and cultural norms. In Costa Rica, they call themselves Ticos, and the concept of “Tico Time,” reflects a more relaxed approach to schedules and punctuality, which can be frustrating for those used to a more structured lifestyle or waiting on a plumber. On the other hand, there’s also the concept of “pura vida,” (pronounced poo-da vee-da), meaning “pure life” literally, although it means much more in Costa Rican Spanish, and is used as a greeting or a toast or a way to shrug off frustration with a long line. Fay points out “they don’t do sarcasm. To show you’re aggravated is impolite.”
Fay doesn’t own a car, so he takes the bus or an Uber. “Traffic is horrible. They have little, narrow roads.” There are many very poor people in Costa Rica, and he’s careful about where he walks. “My rule of thumb is if I see women and children, the street is safe.”
Pros and cons
Besides the climate, another benefit of living in Costa Rica is the relatively low cost of living compared to the United States. Housing, healthcare, and food can be significantly cheaper, depending on where you live.
There’s also a high-quality healthcare system that is both affordable and accessible: the government-run universal healthcare system and the private healthcare system, both of which expats can access.
Before he moved there, Fay would fly to Costa Rica to get his dental work and implants. “The whole trip, plus the dental work, is less than what I would have to pay here. And the dentist sends a car to take me to my appointment and then bring me back.”
Compared to other Latin American countries, Costa Rica is politically stable and has a relatively low crime rate, making it a safe place to live.
Obtaining residency can be a lengthy and complicated process involving a lot of paperwork. Navigating the legal requirements to live and possibly work in your chosen country can be daunting without proper guidance. You’ll need a local attorney, specializing in residency for Americans.
While infrastructure in urban areas and tourist spots in other countries are generally well-developed, more rural areas can lack amenities and services that you might be accustomed to, such as high-speed internet or modern healthcare facilities.
Don’t forget, even bathrooms can be very different. There isn’t always a toilet; in some countries there’s a porcelain hole in the floor. And in countries without a public sewer system, you normally don’t flush your toilet paper; instead, you throw it in the trash.
Living abroad as a person of color
When Karen Beverly, 68, retired from her corporate position Birmingham in 2018 after 41 years, she knew she wanted to live abroad.
“I took a year to research and visit four countries,” she explains. Germany, Italy, Spain and Portugal were on her list of potentials. Portugal rose to the top of her list in terms of ease of immigration, safety, healthcare, friendly people and nice weather.
“I feel much safer in Portugal than in the U.S.,” she says, noting her experience of racism, fear of gun violence, and female vulnerability. “I can walk in the park here at midnight and feel safe.”
She arrived in Lisbon in December of 2019 and then confronted what she describes as a “serious lockdown” when the pandemic hit.
“We had to do everything in the morning and be inside our homes at 1 p.m. when businesses shut down,” she recalls. “There were masks and social distancing – they were very disciplined.” On the plus side, she explored all of Portugal during the pandemic, which was easier because there were no tourists at all.
Another aspect that has enhanced Beverly’s experience is taking over the primary administrator role of a closed Facebook group named “People of Color in Portugal.” She says the group came to her rescue and helped her build a community.
“It’s a safe space for people to voice their experiences as people of color,” she explains. “I promote the community aspect and that ‘you won’t be alone.’ There are so many single women who have moved here, and I want them to know they can make it here.”
Beverly has had some health issues, including hip replacement three years ago and a bout with cancer last year. Compared to the American system, the cost has been minuscule, and she praises the care she received. She has private insurance although there is a public system as well. She notes costs have gone up in almost all areas, including healthcare and rents since the pandemic but remain much lower than the U.S.
She’s planning to apply for Portuguese citizenship, which will allow her to travel all over Europe with no restrictions. Portugal requires five years of residency, passive income, and language proficiency. Beverly will have been in the country for five years in June and will complete the language qualification in two years.
Despite age-related health issues, Beverly has no plans to return to the U.S. and is exploring options for home care when the time comes.
What to know before you go!
Research – Start by thoroughly researching different countries and regions to find the one that best matches the climate, budget and lifestyle you want. Two good resources include:
- https://internationalliving.com/the-best-places-to-retire/ – For over 40 years, International Living has published a monthly magazine for those looking for global retirement or relocation opportunities. In addition, they have added e-letters, a website, podcasts, an online bookstore, and events held around the world.
- https://www.eddandcynthia.com/ – Edd and Cynthia Staton were devastated by the 2008 economic tsunami. They were both downsized from their high-income careers and their home lost two-thirds of its value. They decided the only thing they could do was retire early, take their assets, and move overseas to someplace with a lower cost of living. That turned out to be Cuenca, Ecuador. Since then, they have supplemented their Social Security income with consulting, books and blogs about how to become an expat anywhere. They have a wealth of valuable information to share on their website.
Visit – If possible, visit multiple times at different times of the year to get a feel for the country’s diversity and what living there might be like. Again, a language school is a great way to do it.
Legal Resident or Regular Visitor – Explore your options for legal residency, which, in many cases, can include retiree, income-based, or investor status. Hire a local attorney who specializes in immigration law. Contact current local expats via Facebook, for recommendations.
Financial Planning – Ensure you understand the cost of living in your chosen area and have a financial plan in place. This should include budgeting for housing, healthcare, daily expenses, and unexpected costs. A lot of things can be cheaper but there will be surprises. Expect anything imported to cost more.
Learn the Language – Learning the local language will significantly enhance your experience, allowing you to become part of the local culture and community. And after all, that’s why you’re there, right?
Healthcare – Look at your options, talk it over with your current healthcare provider. Decide whether you’ll be able to use the public healthcare system, private healthcare, or a combination of both. Get health insurance that covers you in your country.
Connect with the Expat Community – Engage with the local expat community through social media, forums, or local meetups. They can offer invaluable advice and support as you navigate your new life.
Be Open and Adaptable – Don’t expect things to be the same. You’ll learn more and have more fun if you embrace the local culture, customs, and lifestyle with an open mind. Being adaptable and patient will help you overcome many challenges. Pura Vida!
Arlene Williams lives in Winterville where she sells real estate, rides horses, and dances like crazy when she gets a chance. Betsy Bean is founder and publisher of Boom.
